Backyard Chickens Basics - Introduction to Chicken Raising
If you have the triangle "Land - Time - Energy," you can feel the joy of raising your own chickens in your backyard, whether you plan to raise them for their eggs or for their meat. The first year of involvement is introductory, and an inexperienced farmer should begin with no more than 4-5 chickens to test his/her commitment.
To begin, if you are only interested in collecting eggs, you do not need a rooster (an adult male chicken). Female chickens can lay eggs in the absence of a rooster. A rooster is only required if you raise chickens for meat. In that case, you'll need a rooster to lay fertile eggs (from which newborn chicks will hatch), as well as a broody hen.
Local regulations are stricter for coops that house a rooster as opposed to those that house only female chickens. You should first check with the local authority to see what the legal framework is, but in most cases, raising only female chickens (which make much less noise) in a semirural area will not cause any problems.
A healthy chicken has a lifespan of 8 to 12 years. There are, of course, notable exceptions to these age restrictions. Hens begin producing eggs when they are 5-6 months old and continue to do so until they reach their final years of life. However, most chickens stop producing eggs at a high rate when they reach the age of three. Most chickens lay 180-270 eggs per year during their first few years of life.
How to design the Chicken Place
When raising chickens in our backyard, infrastructure is critical. We need a clean, fully insulated, well ventilated, and well lit hen house to raise healthy and thriving chickens that will produce quality eggs on a daily basis. It is strongly advised to design and build or purchase the coop well in advance of welcoming the chickens into your backyard. Chicken houses can cost as little as $80 (for two chickens) and as much as $5,000. (for a dozen chickens). On average, each chicken requires 6 square feet (0,5 square meter) of space, and this is just for the coop. You'll also need a field for your chickens to roam around in search of natural food (pasture, insects, worms etc.). Finally, a good fence is required.
The coop will serve as a shelter for the chickens, protecting them from cold, extreme heat, sunburn, and various predators. If you have a large field with varied pasture and the weather is mild all year, the chickens will only use the coop for sleeping and laying eggs. If your chickens are not allowed to graze in the field, you will need a larger coop to house them for the majority of the day. In all cases, a large fan and at least two heat lamps for every four chickens should be installed inside the coop. The reason for this is that when temperatures are extremely high or extremely low, egg laying rates generally slow down. We assist the chickens by maintaining a normal temperature inside the coop using the fan and heat lamps. It is also advantageous to install a light inside the coop. Light is thought to encourage egg laying. There are many experienced farmers who collect hundreds of eggs daily without the use of artificial light, but artificial light is thought to benefit the average chicken farmer. Many chicken farmers claim that they collect more eggs when they turn on the light at 5 a.m. and turn it off at 8 p.m. Some farmers also claim that the artificial light inside the coop calms the chickens, preventing them from becoming aggressive and attacking one another.
In addition, straw, hay, sand, and/or wood shavings must be used as bedding inside the coop. Bedding is required for a variety of reasons (including protecting the chicken legs from injury) and will undoubtedly make cleaning the coop easier. Many farmers also put nest boxes inside their coops to provide their chickens with a safe and secure place to lay their eggs.
Finally, the fence is an important consideration when raising chickens in your backyard. Predators could be closer than you think. For example, your neighbor's dog will almost certainly try to attack the chickens, and only a reinforced tall wired fence can protect them in that case. Chicken hunters include foxes, raccoons, wolves, coyotes, and others. In addition to standard wired fences, there are electric fences designed specifically for poultry predators.
You can help by adding a comment or a photo of your coop, fence, and grazing area.
How to select Chickens for eggs or meat
Chicken Selection - Chicken Purchase
You can buy chickens from a day old (a very cheap solution—$2 each) to 6 months old, when they are ready to lay eggs. If you are new to chicken farming, it is best to start with 4-5 month old chickens because newborn chickens require special handling, attention, and farmer experience to survive. When raised by inexperienced farmers, newborn chickens have a high mortality rate. We should never buy livestock from unknown vendors because a disease outbreak could decimate our entire farm and cost us a fortune. Before making a purchase, we should always conduct research on the seller's reputation.
Egg Chicken Breeds - Choosing Chickens for Eggs
Remember the equation for egg laying: genetics + environment = success. This means that the breed is the most important factor in determining egg laying quantity. Due to a stressful condition, certain breeds may perform exceptionally well in one area but very poorly in another (weather, etc.). Nonetheless, there are many breeds that perform admirably in a typical environment. Before purchasing the young chickens, inquire with the seller about other people in your area who have purchased the same breed and what their average egg production is. The Rhode Island Red is the most well-known egg-laying breed. This breed produces 240 eggs per year on average. The eggs are brown and medium in size. Famous egg chicken breeds include Sussex, Star, Favaucana, and Buff Orpington.
Meat Chicken Breeds - Meat Chicken Selection
Raising meat chickens necessitates the presence of a rooster (male chicken) and a broody hen in your coop. Housing a rooster can be difficult for a variety of reasons. First and foremost, you must determine whether it is legal in your area to keep a rooster. Second, you must notify your neighbors of your decision, as noise can be an issue. Raising chickens for meat, on the other hand, can quickly become a source of fresh meat and income if done correctly and on a scalable basis. Meat chicken breeds that grow quickly can reach their final and proper slaughter weight in less than two months. Cornish Cross is the most well-known meat chicken breed. The average male weighs 12 pounds. (5,5 kg), whereas the average female weight is 8 pounds (3,6 kg). In 5-6 weeks, the Cornish Cross will reach its final weight. Famous meat chicken breeds include the Delaware, Jersey Giant, and Red Ranger.
Feeding Chickens – What do Chickens eat
We have the well-known "Pasture vs Commercial Feeder" debate, which occurs in many livestock categories. Supporters of the "Pasture" school of thought argue that pasture combined with insects, worms, sand, and small stones is the chicken's natural food, which the chicken prefers to explore on its own rather than being served on a plate. The state of wandering and exploring the food is critical and is strongly related to the chickens' well-being. The term pasture refers to a wide variety of plant species, including grass, clover, alfalfa (Medicago sativa), chicory, legumes, brassicas, and others. The quality of food consumed is directly related to pasture biodiversity (more diverse food – better quality). Many chicken farmers believe that if a field can provide enough pasture for the chickens all year, there is no reason to provide anything else in the feeder other than pasture, hay, and simple cracked corn. Many farmers also use chicken frames (or boxes) to provide fresh grass to their chickens in a small space. Chicken frames are actually raised beds that are covered in wire cloth. The chickens can only eat the tops of the stems, while the roots of the plants are protected, allowing the plants to regrow in a few days.
It is not safe, however, to feed your chickens any unidentified plant. It is strongly advised to remove any nightshade plant (tomato, potato, eggplant, etc.) from your pastured chickens' field, as the leaves and other parts of these plants are toxic to chickens. Other ornamental plants (Azalea) and shrubs have been discovered to be toxic to chickens, resulting in life-threatening situations after just one small leaf.
Although a rich and diverse flora field is an excellent source of food, keep in mind that during the winter frosty days, even if your field has adequate flora and you have opened the coop door, the chances are that the chickens will not leave the coop for the majority of the day. As a result, in most cases, we must keep an adequate supply of commercial chicken feeder on hand in order to provide our chickens with a balanced diet rich in protein and fiber.
The most common commercial hen feeders are a blend of soy, corn, and cotton seeds, which is often combined with alfalfa. Newborn chicks require a starter feed that contains 20% protein and is frequently Coccidiosis-treated. Scratch is used to provide energy to egg-laying hens that primarily eat pasture. Scratch is typically made of cracked corn and whole wheat and is an excellent food for keeping chickens warm during the winter months. When raising chickens for eggs, it is common practice to provide (among other feeds) calcium-rich pellets (3%), which promote egg production. When we raise chickens for meat, we generally supplement their diet with more grains (wheat, barley, and sorghum) (protein up to 20%) to promote growth.
Pelletized food is now very popular among chicken farmers. The reason for this is that pellet feeding ensures that the chickens receive the optimal mix of nutrients based on their intended use, growth stage, and requirements. As a result, the chickens will not be able to select the food they prefer while leaving the rest untouched. Even farmers who feed pellets to their chickens usually supplement their diet with whole grains in small amounts. The reason for this is that eating whole grains stimulates a sensitive part of the chicken's stomach, which has been linked to the chicken's health and well-being. Remember that grit is also important when your chickens do not forage. Because chickens lack teeth, grit (dirt, sand, and small stones) is extremely beneficial to digestion. If your chickens graze outside and browse for food, they will undoubtedly pick up their fair share of grit from the field, so there is no need to supplement their diet with grit.
Collecting the eggs from backyard chickens
A good egg yield in your first year is around 60%. This means that you can collect 3 eggs per day for every 5 chickens. We only count 9-10 months of the year when we say daily (spring, summer and autumn). During a harsh winter, most chickens cease egg production. One of the most important factors in egg production for a given chicken is exposure to daylight. You can increase your chickens' exposure to sunlight by opening the coop door early in the morning and spreading their feed in sunny areas of your field. It is also advantageous to install a light inside the coop. There are many experienced farmers who collect hundreds of eggs daily without the use of artificial light, but it is true that artificial light can be beneficial at times. Many chicken farmers claim that they collect more eggs when they turn on the light at 5 a.m. and turn it off at 8 p.m. Some farmers also claim that the artificial light inside the coop calms the chickens, preventing them from becoming aggressive and attacking one another.
We usually collect the eggs in the morning, but we can also check for eggs before going to bed. If you leave eggs in the coop for a day or two, a chicken will most likely try to break the egg and eat it. After collecting the eggs, we carefully clean them and store them in the refrigerator. The eggs should be consumed within three days of being collected. Most chickens stop laying eggs at a good rate around the age of 3-4 years.