Tips from Hartwood Farm for Effective Seed Starting

Tips from Hartwood Farm for Effective Seed Starting

Are you contemplating establishing a garden? Are you looking for plants to grow in your yard and around your house? This week's article is all about how to cultivate strong, dependable transplants for gardens and farms in areas with particularly intriguing weather, like upstate New York. My favorite aspect of farming is seed beginning, therefore even if we don't have enough greenhouse room to sell you all our plants directly, we wanted to explain how we do it and inspire you to start your own vegetables and flowers!

We had fun planting eggplant in late May with our brand-new Waterwheel transplanter.

First of all, why sow seeds into the ground rather than starting them indoors or using transplants?

We transplant almost any vegetable that can withstand it (we direct seed some crops like beans, carrots, radishes, turnips, etc. that don't like their roots disturbed). Why do we transplant so much? for a variety of factors...

The growing season can be less than optimal when you are high up in the northeast. In average, you can shorten the time it takes for seeds to ripen by ten to fourteen days when you start them inside your home or in a greenhouse. If you transplant it, for instance, a crop like a 120-day winter squash may only require 106 to 110 days to maturity. The extra ten days may not seem like much, but in a summer with a frost at the end of May and another in the middle of September, they can mean the difference between obtaining squash fruit or not!

Second, since we are pressed for time and space in the field (as you probably are, whether you're growing for yourself or the market), it makes us more productive if every plant in a bed is at the exact right distance apart and is the same size. We have tough soil, so our germination isn't great in the field when we direct seed. Other times, critters may sample things straight away, or germination may be too good and the spacing will be too close. When we transplant crops, we can ensure that everything is correctly spaced in the field because the ideal greenhouse conditions promote better germination.

Last but not least, we still have a ways to go in our efforts to control weeds, pests, and diseases in the soil. Our fields and soils are still a work in progress. When we employ large, healthy crops that have been transplanted, they begin the season weeks before the weeds and are, ideally, healthy enough to fend off the majority of diseases and pests. By forcing us to spend more time in the greenhouse during the slower months of March and April, transplanting actually saves us time on the weeding front during our busy months of May and June.

A clean, disinfected greenhouse to kick off the season!

Keep it tidy!

Before the season begins, we concentrate on thoroughly cleaning anything that will come in contact with a tiny seedling. We are Certified Naturally Grown, which implies that when pests and diseases strike, we can't use any powerful (chemical) weapons on our crops because we only choose to utilize goods that are authorized for use in organic production systems. Because of this, our main objective is to put up growing systems that ensure our plants are strong, healthy, and free of odors or pests before they are planted in the ground. This way, we won't have to worry about issues in the future. We are trying to avoid illnesses or pests from spreading to this year's plants on the farm through last year's seed, potting soil, or seedlings by keeping our seed starting space extremely clean. Even if you aren't interested in organic gardening, it's usually easier to prevent issues than scramble to solve them. If your seed starting containers have been camped out in your yard next to your compost bin since you planted last June, give them a good scrub before you start.

Tips from Hartwood Farm for Effective Seed Starting

We begin by cleaning the greenhouse (or your seed-starting area, if you are inside) and then use an organically approved sanitizing spray (basically a rapidly dissipating hydrogen peroxide solution diluted), to kill any spores or microorganisms that may have survived the winter on last season's trays. Although you might omit this step if your plant starts are normally in good health, we encourage sanitation since it's better to be safe than sorry when so many hungry CSA members depend on us for produce each year.

Because they are so perishable, seeds don't do well in unsanitary storage facilities. They may not germinate or grow as well if they spend the entire year in an environment that is too hot or too moist. Generally speaking, attempt to store seeds in environments where the sum of the temperature and humidity is less than 100. For instance, if your residence is 68 degrees, you want your seeds to be in a place with low relative humidity, such as under 32%. Higher humidity levels are acceptable if you keep your seeds somewhere cool, as in your freezer at 20 degrees.

The general viability of a seed, or how long it may be stored, should also be considered. Here is a helpful chart that will show you how long a seed can survive. Use seeds that don't keep well in the year you buy them (for example, we never keep onion seed over year to year), and if you do want to save seed to use later, do a quick germination test on them before you plant (here are directions HERE), as it's very disappointing to plant bum seed and have nothing grow! Many seed businesses are now offering pelleted seed (seed covered in clay), which is perfect for planting for those of us who use machine seeders or have carpal tunnel syndrome. Pelleting, however, decreases seed viability, thus those seeds must be consumed as soon as possible!

Finally, while starting seeds, pick reputable seed companies with top-notch goods. Given all the additional expenses associated with farming and gardening, it is definitely not worth saving money on seed costs. Raising crops requires a lot of time and effort. High Mowing Seeds and Johnny's Selected Seeds are two sources of seed that we frequently use because they are bred for our more extreme northern growing conditions. The Hudson Valley Seed Library, Fedco Seeds, and Fruition Seeds all have excellent options for the northeast.

preparing trays for the potting soil we have already watered.

Use high-quality potting soil, to relate.

This is, in our opinion, one of the most crucial steps in the seed-starting process because it forms the cornerstone of growing a strong plant. Choose a sterile (often peat-based) medium or a living compost-based media when it comes to potting soil. Compost-based potting mixtures are typically preferred because they should be fertile enough to prevent the need for fertilizer and because they accustom young plants to obtaining nutrients from the soil. Compost-based mixes have the drawback of not being sterile, and if the composter didn't do a good job and used plants that had certain diseases in the compost, the disease-causing microorganisms could transfer to your baby seeds. Moreover, compost-based mixtures require much more ability to water properly, which can be difficult for novice growers (more on that later). Sterile mixtures are beneficial since they frequently have a large capacity to store water due to the presence of peat moss, but the only fertility or nutrients they provide for your infant plants come from the fertilizer that is applied to them.

A quality potting mix can be difficult to find. Our agricultural organization actually orders ours in large quantities from the Hudson Valley or Vermont, and it's one of the spring's highest expenses. The commercial mixes are so much better than anything we could possibly manufacture, so we have decided to let the professionals handle it for us. Some people choose to make their own (there is a mix of formulas HERE), and we have done so in the past with some success. You might have luck locating small bags of high-quality potting mixes from nearby nurseries, greenhouses, or hydroponics retailers instead of the super-chemically mixes that big box stores frequently stock (check the labels to see whether they contain Miracle Gro).

Germination domes that trap heat and moisture are removed for the day in order to prevent the plants from overheating. The domes will fuse together if you stack them in a mound in the sun.

Water!

One of the most important factors in a seedling's growth and one of the trickiest tasks to perform successfully is water management. The right amount of moisture is necessary for seeds to germinate, but too much moisture can cause a variety of diseases, including damping off, which is the bane of many seed starters.

We add water to our potting soil so that it is already rather moist when we start the seeds, allowing us to skip a few days of watering. Then, we concentrate on maintaining the soil's top layer's moisture (germination domes or covering with saran wrap can assist with this), but we don't really wet the entire tray deeply at this point because doing so could wash away the nutrients those babies will need later. At this stage, we often use a mister, inspecting and re-misting numerous times per day.

Once the seeds have begun to sprout and grow, you should water them deeply enough that they receive an adequate amount of water to grow quickly, but not so deeply that their roots are prevented from spreading out and developing strong root systems or that nutrients are being leached out. You will need to experiment with your systems to find the balance that works best for you, your potting soil, and your initial setup.

Generally speaking, plants will require more water as they enlarge (or if you see any visible wilting starting). However, if you notice plants keeling over and appearing as though their stems have been pinched off (this is damping off, which is fatal for the plant that gets it and is caused by the combination of soil funk and over-watering), or if they are looking strange and yellow, it could be an indication of over-watering, and you should water less and allow some airflow on the affected plants. One thorough watering each day should suffice if you water from the bottom up. If you water from the top, go over the trays several times with each watering to ensure that you are getting the water in thoroughly.

Finally, we aim to water early in the day or by mid-afternoon so that the leaves are dry by evening. Try to time your watering to limit the amount of leaf wetness because wet leaves are a wonderful breeding ground for plant stink.

We have a new germination chamber! It can hold 64 flats at once, runs at 83 degrees, and is heated by a crock-pot and a small heater.

Climate and Lighting

Every crop has a preferred range of temperatures for germination and growth. Although some crops, like lettuce, only sprout at cooler temperatures, in general we employ higher temperatures to aid in seed germination and lower temperatures to grow out those germinations (so they are hardy and prepared for our severe field circumstances!). Germination over a heating duct, utilizing mini heaters, creating germination boxes (we have a beautiful one, but you could simply use something as simple as a cooler with a light bulb), and using commercial heating mats are all ways to raise temperatures for your seedlings. Focus solely on crops like your peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes if space and heat are at a premium because they require warm soil to begin growing.

You should check the instructions on your seed packets since some things, particularly a lot of herbs and flowers, need light to grow. The majority of vegetables can tolerate light or not, and they like to be shallowly covered in soil (to a depth of 1 to 3 times their width, at most). But, as soon as the seeds begin to emerge from the soil, or as soon as the plants begin to germinate, they require light to avoid growing strangely long and stretched-out leaves. Leggy plants never really grow as well as stocky, shorter plants since they are reaching out and developing long stems to reach the light.

For seedling germination, a greenhouse with direct sunlight is ideal. Nevertheless, if you don't, you can simulate one by using a very sunny south-facing windowsill or grow lights of any kind (sometimes you can find decent lights on Craigslist). Fluorescent lights only function properly when they are suspended between 3 and 6 inches above the plants; any higher results in depressed, lanky plants.

Even with a sophisticated greenhouse, growing plants in CNY can be difficult when a Mordor-like gloom sets in as all of your baby seeds begin to sprout. Even in the greenhouse, we've experienced issues with seedlings growing too long, particularly with brassica plants like broccoli, cauliflower, and kale when they germinate prior to a period of overcast days. So, even seed starters in greenhouses may wish to think about lights or monitor the weather.

With the exception of tomatoes (which may be replanted deeply, hiding that long stem), you can try to toughen up lanky, extended plant stems by exposing them to more light and some wind, but they will never be as nice as stockier plants.

Last but not least, be careful not to fry your seedlings! When it turns sunny and you are using plastic, germination domes, or even a greenhouse, you need to quickly expose your plants or the soil could heat up and fry the seeds or seedlings. The germination domes are preemptively removed if we are leaving the farm on an overcast day in case the sun emerges since we calculate we only have five minutes after the sun comes out to remove all of them before the soil reaches boiling temperatures.

Understand plant diseases and pests, and keep an eye on your seedlings.

Consider the issues you've previously had with your seedlings, and make sure you check them every day to make sure you're not developing any new issues. The most frequent occurrences in our greenhouse are fungus gnats, mouse damage, and problems brought on by very harsh water. The issues I frequently observe away from the farm are legginess, excessive watering, aphids, and damping off. The majority of these problems can be resolved by changing management.

Examine your seedlings carefully and take action when you notice a problem:

Leggy seedlings indicate that your light is too far away from the crops, therefore you should increase the amount of light reaching them (and, if there is time, think about replacing since extremely leggy plants won't produce much).

Damping off, or when perfectly healthy-looking seedlings collapse, is caused by excessive moisture and overwatering. Attempt to give the plants some ventilation, and reevaluate your watering practices. You want to concentrate your efforts on saving the survivors in the tray because damped off plants are already dead.

Rodents are probably the cause of a lot of lost plant tops, so you should identify their source and set up some traps. Your plants might also need to be moved because, once they locate a food source, they tend to return to it repeatedly. For a brief period of time, germination domes can keep the wimpier rodents out.

If you use compost-based potting soil, fungus gnats may enter your home. They thrive in moist, humid environments. They might be the tiny black flies buzzing over your plants. They aren't really a big nuisance on their own, but they can infect the plants. Dry out your seed-starting area and attempt to eliminate any sources of dampness.

In greenhouses with continuous plant cover or on purchased plants, aphids can overwinter. They frequently congregate in the seedlings' developing tips, giving the new growth an odd appearance. Both aggressive watering and insecticidal soaps that have received organic approval can help repel insects from the plants. Purchased ladybugs do consume them, but since it takes some time for the population to be affected, they are more of a preventative strategy than a treatment.

The problem with too much water is probably what I notice most in people's seedlings. The symptoms include damping off, a lot of moss growing on the soil, and fading foliage because the soil is so saturated that the plants are being deprived of nutrients. The seedling trays should get very heavy after you water the seedlings well. Prior to rewatering, try to wait until they are relatively light (perhaps half as heavy) (though not to the point of making the plants sad or wilty). Develop the practice of weighing your trays and water according to weight rather than according to a specific time interval. Seedlings might not require watering every day, particularly in the cloudy upstate.

Given our extremely alkaline, limestone-like water, hard water is the last problem we encounter. Even while some organic additions have the potential to make your water more acidic, home gardens shouldn't have any issues with this. One caveat is that since the hard water is more of an issue in warmer circumstances, you can observe more yellowing and slower growth if you plant seeds in the middle of the summer for fall crops. In the summer, we normally work to plant our seedlings more quickly to avoid this issue.

As a final point, if you purchase seedlings, you should carefully inspect them to look for any foliar problems (are the leaves spotty? curled or yellowing leaves? Unusual hues), checking for bugs or odors, and simply searching for healthy plants in general. In general, locally grown seedlings are a LOT healthier than the majority of the plants available at some of the big box stores, since most of the local places are professional growers keeping an eye on their seedlings and ensuring any with disease or funk are culled out. The seedlings should be a nice bright green, have thick, sturdy stems, and not be too stretched out.

Strengthen those rascals.

"Hardening off" is the final step in preparing all of these lovely seedlings for planting after they have reached planting readiness. In essence, it refers to toughening up the infants to prepare them for the transition to being outside. Plants cultivated indoors are lavished with all the water and nutrients they require while being shielded from harsh light, winds, chill, and heat. A plant may die if it is moved directly from its indoor growing place to the ground because of the stress of having to deal with all of those things at once.

By gradually exposing the seedlings to challenges, such as limiting water for a few days, exposing them to the wind and sun for prolonged periods of time, or lowering the temperature In an ideal scenario, you would transfer the trays outside for a few hours, bring them back inside, and repeat the process over the course of a week, extending the time spent outside each time. We often harden plants off in this fashion for a few days while minimizing their water requirements in our imperfect environment. In order to avoid stressing the crops after planting from the sun, we occasionally cheat by timing the transplanting of the crops for periods of darkness and clouds.

Strong seedlings can typically withstand some of the challenges associated with a quick transition outside, but you want to make sure they don't experience all of them at once. To lessen the shock on your infants, try to avoid transplanting close to a hot, dry, windy spell. Also, make sure to give your transplants extra tender loving care during the first week after they are buried.

AVOID JUMPING THE GUN!

We completely understand that now is the perfect time of year for farmers and gardeners alike to get their hands dirty. Yet starting those babies too early is one of the WORST things you can do when starting seeds. Since fresh, healthy transplants survive and develop so much better than older, root-bound ones, rushing seed beginning rarely pays off (unless you're a commercial farmer who absolutely wants to have the first of a crop to market to make the premium those vegetables involve).

Doing a little math with your vegetables is the easiest way to avoid starting too early. For instance, it worries me to see that everyone in the northeast is starting their tomato plants in February even though they won't be placed in a greenhouse. Consider counting back to determine the ideal date to start tomatoes indoors if you intend to plant tomatoes outside on Memorial Day weekend (a customary and generally good start date). For instance, we raise our field tomatoes in 48 cell flats, which means that there are 48 plants in a typical flat, which is a very typical quantity for plants you might purchase from a greenhouse. I want a tomato seedling that is strong, healthy, and ready to burst into development. This takes around five weeks of greenhouse growth, or possibly six weeks, if I want to push to plant it a bit before Memorial Day. Calculating back, that tells me that I shouldn't plant my outside tomatoes this year before April 16. You might be able to start them in April if you are growing them in a larger container, such as a quart yogurt container. But, growing a tomato before that can actually cause it to regress and lower your future harvests because it is likely to become too large and rootbound, which will affect its ability to grow.

Using smaller transplants has almost always resulted in significantly better growth than utilizing larger ones. Thus, don't worry if you haven't begun your seeds yet; there's still plenty of time! The majority of our hardy crops, which will be transplanted outside in late April or early May, are started in our greenhouse during the final week of March. We begin planting our field tomatoes in the middle of April, along with longer-season sensitive vegetables like peppers and eggplants. Fast-growing seedlings, such as cucumbers and squash, only have two to three weeks in their cells, so we don't even consider starting them until May. You still have plenty of time to prepare for and plant your seedlings, so don't worry. Happy expanding!

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